The 1970s and early 1980s gave us plenty of foods we’ve all but forgotten—fondue, bread bowls, raspberry vinaigrette—and at first, comfort food followed the same trajectory: from popularity to commodification to backlash.
The promise of comfort was easy to sell to Americans just on the other side of the Vietnam War and the oil embargo. First came the cookbooks. Among the earliest to spot the public’s yearning was The Best of Electric Crockery Cooking. When it was published in 1976, the book sold itself as a gourmet’s guide to the new-fangled Crock Pot. But, by 1978, it was advertising its step-by-step instructions for meatloaf and minestrone. Thousands of similar titles have been published in the decades since, offering “quick,” “modern,” “familiar,” “shareable,” “gluten-free,” “keto” and “vegan” comfort food recipes.
Next came the restaurants. For years, countless diners and cafeterias had been serving the type of 1950s middle-class, Midwestern cuisine that was, by the mid-1980s, what people meant when they said “comfort food.” By the early 1980s, the country’s top chefs wanted a taste. The Los Angeles Times marveled at the attention lavished on rice pudding by kitchens better known for their caviar.
Meanwhile, the food writer Jane Stern despaired at the phone calls from high-end restaurants she and her husband, Michael, fielded after publishing their cookbook on the topic. These dishes didn’t belong in fancy dining rooms, especially not at twice the price. “The point is that food is more than food—it’s heart strings—it’s memory,” she said. In 1988, the decidedly upscale Food & Wine magazine declared comfort food to be “hot.”
The dueling diet trends of the 1990s should have spelled the end for comfort food. The decade began with low-fat and then no-fat products crowding the supermarket shelves and ended with its mirror image: the low-carb dictates of Atkins. The 1993 debut of the Food Network, too, should have doomed the trend. Bobby Flay and Emeril Lagasse turned every home cook into a professional chef, experimenting with new ingredients and creating picture-perfect plates. Gerry Brown’s humble, monochromatic mashed potatoes had no place in this new world.
And yet, in the aftermath of 9/11, we found ourselves reaching for the same foods we relied on in the weeks after Black Monday, in 1987. We rallied around comfort food again during the 2008 financial crisis, and we are stocking up on it today.